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Something new has popped up literally in the middle
of Tokyo’s traditional lunchtime regime. Basically,
in the one hour between noon and 1 pm, workers in
the downtown area flood out of their offices in
search of lunch knowing they face four daily alternatives:
a long line for sit-down restaurant dining, a box
lunch from home (called a bento), a bento purchased
at the bento shop or convenience store around the
corner (and another long line), or stand-up soba—the
original fast food.
But, in recent years, a new breed of
independent guerrilla restaurateur has started a
revolution to overthrow the staid lunchtime tradition—off-beat
and tasty meals on wheels. We do not mean deliveries
to the office, but curbside lunch wagons—here
today, gone tomorrow—selling all manner of
novel and compelling cuisine from Japan and around
the world—if you can catch them. The food
is freshly prepared on the spot. Menus range from
Japanese regional delicacies and other treats hard
to find in the city to Thai and Indian curries,
Vietnamese noodles, Hawaiian barbecue chicken, Turkish
donner kebab, and so forth. In this business, being
unique brings sales.
Other things separate these “restaurant
operators” from their competitors. First,
their prices reflect their location on the rent-free
side of the sidewalk—parked in the street.
Second, vendors are generally young and motivated,
but not interested in climbing the corporate ladder.
It is an irony that they depend mostly on the corporate
world for their customers.
Everyday around noon at prime locations
in cities across Japan, look for wagons clustered
together in an exotic “food carnival.”
There, you will find customers, drawn in by the
festive menus, odd vehicular diversity and lively
chatter of the proprietors. They cluster around
to celebrate tasty alternative dining at even tastier
prices.
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