A rotenburo with a view of a beautiful Japanese garden
Picture this: You’re outside, in a bathtub made out of fragrant wood and filled with almost unbearably hot, crystal-clear water that turns your overworked, holiday-starved muscles into putty. Just a few meters away, against a backdrop of maple trees beautifully reddened by the onset of autumn, runs a small brook. Pure relaxation!
In Japan, bathing in volcanic springs, or onsen, has been an integral part of the culture for millennia, both as a form of relaxation and as a cure for ailments—the mineral-rich, often sulfur-smelling water is widely believed to benefit health.
Many of today’s bathhouses date back hundreds of years, featuring traditional architecture and staff trained in the ultra-precise etiquette of old. Very often, they are located at scenic natural spots, and a dip in the rotenburo, the outdoor bath, can offer spectacular views of mountains, rivers or forests. Yet, you will also find onsen in the midst of the neon-lit big cities, where they offer a respite from the daily rat race. Of the latter, some pump the volcanic water from more than a kilometer below ground.
For the foreign traveler, visiting an onsen is a must—but be sure to follow the strict bathing etiquette! Unlike in the West, bathing in Japan is primarily done for relaxation; washing is done before getting into the water. Also, soap and shampoo should be rinsed off thoroughly, as polluting the bathwater with these is a major no-no. Finally, mixed-sex bathing is still alive and well in some rural parts of Japan, so if you feel shy about this, it is best to check if there are single-sex onsen as well before booking.
Rules aside, visiting an onsen is an unforgettable experience, particularly if followed by a nice meal, and should be a key point on any foreigner’s itinerary.